Love is just like surf

I was just thinking about how love and romance are exactly just like surfing.

You're there, alone in the water, waiting for something that might not come, and you can't do anything about it but to wait. A lot of people are waiting around you too, but you're all actually on your own.

And you just got in the water so you try catch whatever comes first. But you mistaken the shadows of the sun in the water for good waves and nothing happens.

And then some waves start to come. You see something from the distance. You start to paddle, you wanna catch it sooo bad. But the wave doesn't push you hard enough so you have to let it go.

Another one comes, it looks amazing, but it's actually too big, you realize your mistake half way through. It's too late so you paddle hard and try to stand up but then the wave swallows you up and you are about to drown.

You end up on the beach, tired and hurt. But you get back in the water.

Then some good waves come. Everything goes right and you catch the first one, but when you do the take off you fall off the board.

Once.

Twice.

Three times.

Ten times.

Thirty times.

You're tired, you start to question why the fuck you're doing what you're doing. Seems like everyone else is getting amazing waves and you're the only one constantly falling.

And then you see something far away, not too big, not too small. So you paddle, not so hopefully, but you do. And it carries you, just with the right amount of power. And you stand up, just in the right moment. And you're surfing it. And you've never felt more alive. And you go up and down the wave and you experience it in every possible way and you look around and the word's never been so beautiful. And it seems like that wave is gonna last forever

But it looses power.

You try denying it at first, and try to push a bit harder, but eventually you have to let it go.

And you're soooo excited and soooo sad at the same time that you promise yourself you'd do whatever it takes to feel like you just did riding that wave again.

So you run back to the water.

And you wait.

And you wait.

And you wait.

But you never know if it's gonna get dark before another one comes in, or if you're gonna have to leave the water before it happens. Or if another one like that might ever come again at all.

But you'll never forget about that feeling, and you'll forever be obsessed with catching the perfect wave. 

You just became an addict.

Agnes Hightopp